FO: Ginger Jeans

I have been sewing a lot in the first half of the year, and I am determined not to have a back log of projects to document so here is my second pair of Ginger Jeans by Closet Case Patterns.

I made my first pair back in February of 2016 and have been meaning to make another pair ever since. I was very pleased with the first pair and they quickly became my favourite jeans. I loved the high waistband having avoided anything that high for years - the relief of not being cut in two every time I bent over was great. Over the two years that I have had them, the fabric, which wasn't quite as stretchy as it should have been has lost some of its stretch, and also they have shrunk in leg length a little as well. I can still wear them but they are not quite as comfortable as they were.

Last summer we had a family holiday to Paris and our Air BnB apartment was a few minutes walk from the fabric district at the base of the Sacre Cour. Naturally a few visits with and without the family were made, particularly to Tissue Reine. Here I found quite a lot of stretch denim - the piece I brought home was 65% cotton, 30% elasten and 5% lycra. I bought it specifically to make another pair of Gingers, it just took me seven months to get round to it!

When I was cutting out I cut in one layer which gives a very economical lay out, so economical in fact that I have enough for a skirt - possibly enough for another SOI Erin skirt, if not, a self drafted one.

I cut the same size as before - even though I took it in quite a lot the first time.  Having done the fly and the pockets, I used a tip that I learnt at Camp Workroom Social - namely to sew the inseam until about 4cm from the crotch, pin the outer seams together wrong sides together, then try them on.

pin fitting on the legs

fly insertion

This pin fitting refines the fit on the legs, and leaving the crotch open at this point means that fit in this area can be tweaked as as well. It is tricky to do on your own, but not impossible. I did one leg at a time and I think it worked really well.  I was concerned about a lot of excess wrinkling on the back of the legs when I first started wearing them, but I think most of the issues were to do with the boots I was wearing them with.

checking fit and dodgy pocket placement

Looking at these pictures, I think I need to lower the waist band at the back a little, and having worn them a lot I need to make the waistband a bit tighter on the next pair and to allow a bit more room in the calf area. I have noticed that they have shrunk in the leg length as well, so I think I will give my next lot of denim and second and third wash before cutting into it.

I have worn them a lot since I made them and they featured quite heavily in Me Made May, so altogether a very successful make.

Me-Made-May16 week 3

Well, half way through week 4 here is my recap of week 3:

Top row: unblogged Minoru jacket and Cowl top; Magpie Kirsten Kimono T; Newlook 6230 sweatshirt; Minoru jacket and peasant blouse

Second row: Simplicity 2451 skirt, Newlook 6230 sweatshirt and Minoru jacket; peasant blouse; Simplicity 2451 skirt and Sewaholic Renfrew top; Ginger Jeans, unblogged Burda top and Minoru jacket

This week I have only put in links to items that I haven't linked to in previous MMMay16 posts.

I seem to be coping well with the challenge and some days have even managed double or triple me-mades in one outfit. One day I even managed 5 pieces as I went to a party and had a complete change of clothes.

I notice that many people have commented about wearing repeat outfits - I am not in the least bothered about whether I wear something or a whole outfit more than once in the month. I personally feel that if I have enough clothes to wear something different every day of the month, then I have too many clothes.

The weather continues to be better than some of the previous MMM's that I have taken part in, which means that there are several items that I haven't worn yet - not long to go 'til the end of the month

Me Made May16 week 2

 
Top Row: The oldest make that I still wear - made when I was around 15, updated with an exposed zip in the back a few years ago; Hudson pants v; same Hudsons as yesterday and Stripey short sleeved burda raglan top;

Bottom row: Linen self drafted skirt and poly chiffon Newlook 6895; Friday theme colour block Kristen Kimono tee; copy of rtw top under cardi, Ginger jeans and new unblogged Sewaholic Minoru jacket

In previous years I have struggled to keep warm during MMMay and most of my makes have been hidden from view under other warmer layers.  This year I have managed to wear some of my warmer weather clothes earlier in the month than previous years. I have quite a few me-made items that I haven't worn yet, but the forecast is a bit dodgey for the next few days so I'm sure they will make it out of the wardrobe at some point! 

Last year I noted that I needed more bottom halves for outfits to even out the number of tops I have made.  I have manged to do this without trying too hard - I made a linen skirt using my pattern drafting skills, another pair of Hudsons and most pleasingly, a pair of Ginger Jeans.  The jeans aren't perfect, but they are now my 'nice jeans' and all others have been relegated to everyday or working (gardening/painting etc). I have already got more denim to make some more, but I am not sure whether to stick to the Ginger skinnys or try a different style with  the new Morgan jeans by the same pattern maker, Closet Case Files.

I have been wearing myself out in the garden over the last week so have been recovering with some selfless sewing - a pair of Hudsons for Eldest and a skirt for a friend that I drafted using the info from my pattern cutting class.

FO: Ginger Jeans

Oh my gosh, I made JEANS!

Having always thought that jeans and underwear would be things that I would never sew.... I have made jeans! I kept seeing amazing versions of the Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans pop up all over the internet and began to think that sewing my own jeans might be feasible.

I was nudged closer to this decision by the realisation that I would need new jeans soon-ish and I didn't particularly fancy several hours in a jeans shop trying to find the right fit. Finally, I was tipped over the edge by Winnie of Scruffybadger. She posted sometime ago about a pair of jeans she had made that were one of her Minerva Makes. Because it was a Minerva Make post, Minerva Crafts have put together a kit including the fabric, top stitching and normal thread, twin needle, jeans button and metal jeans zip, so one can grab all the supplies all in one go.  I quizzed Winnie about the feel of the fabric and then eventually purchased the Minerva kit and the download version of the Ginger Jeans pattern.

The denim is a very dark indigo, which is my preference in jeans, and the top stitching thread is a more muted bronze rather than the usual brighter orangey colour. I washed my denim at least twice, but still had dye coming out on my hands whilst I was working on them.

I read a lot of the construction and fitting advice that is available on the internet, along with Heather's instructions and the very useful sewalong. I referred  to this post quite a lot as I felt her fit and wrinkle issues looked similar to mine. I still managed to cut the wrong size - thankfully a larger size - so it wasn't a disaster. I think I confused the body measurements and the finished garment measurement. I cut the high waisted skinny leg version.

In construction I used both the instructions included with the pattern and the sewalong available on the Closet Case Files website. The instructions go into a fantastic level of detail and make each stage of the process very manageable.

pockets and top stitching

The best piece of advice for these, is to baste the whole jeans together to assess fit - the front  and back pieces are all assembled and top stitched to start, then basted together with a long machine stitch. It is very satisfying whizzing these up - I then had the fun of  working out what changes I need to make.

baste fitting

assessing crotch fit at basting stage

I had to take a big wedge out of the yoke and waistband. I took most of the excess out of the centre back,  took in the side seams quite a lot, adjusted  the front crotch curve a little, and also took in the inside leg seam. This is where I made a mistake - I think I took too much off the the front leg pieces on the inseam.  The seam comes round towards the front. I cut the the denim very carefully on grain, so being off grain is not the cause. Having said that, and having worn these a lot since finishing them, they are the most comfortable jeans I have.  I was unsure about the high waist initially, but I really like wearing it.  I still don't like the way it looks if I were to tuck in my tops, but since I never do that, it is not a problem.

high waist

high waist

It is actually a relief not not be cut in half by my waistband when ever I sit or bend down!

waistband detail

I was concerned about the wrinkles in the back view, but I tried pinning them out to get rid of them and then discovered I need that fabric there in order to sit down! Having looked at these photos, I might straighten out the back pockets a bit if I make them again.

Picture overload there.... I love these jeans and have worn them a lot since I made and I am pretty sure I shall be making more!

Since I made mine, Heather has released a Jeans E-book with all the construction info in one place and a flares add-on. I may well be purchasing these!